| September
2009 and my next project is fitting power steering - to be exact a Corsa C
electric power steering unit obtained off eBay for £47 plus postage. |
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Before
starting I spoke to a guy down the road from me who prepares Mk2s for
rallying to get a few pointers on the best way to go about this
conversion. |
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One of the
first jobs was to remove the steering lock mechanism and various bits of
switchgear that I would not need. The trouble was the top bearing was
housed within this complete plastic unit. I ended up butchering off most
of the plastic with the hacksaw and angle grinder just leaving the centre
bit with the bearing in it. |
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Rather by
luck than design the Corsa unit that I had bought came with the short
double ended sliding universal jointed bit at the bottom end of the
column. This makes the job of fitting it to an Escort a lot easier. |
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I only
needed one half of this bit, the ended which attaches to the column
itself. There's a couple of small peenings which hold it together, these
need to be drilled out first. |
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Then it
should slide apart fairly easily, a good hammer blow or two might help. |
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Next up I
get a standard Mk1 column and dismantle it - no way was I going to butcher
a proper Mexico short column. Anyway you need to remove this circlip at
the bottom of the inner column before it can be slid out of the top end of
the outer column. |
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The
complete inner shaft can then be slid out of the top of the outer column.
It's a bit rusty from having lain about for many years but I first gave it
a go with the sander, later I'll take it round to mum's and give the
splines a proper clean in the blast cabinet. |
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I have a
bit of a look through all the old scraps of metal that I keep lying about
and find this little bit with slotted holes, I reckon that I can use this
to make a bracket to bolt the column under the dash. |
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I also cut
and bend a couple more scraps into "L" shaped brackets, these
are then welded onto the bracket above - see below. |
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At this
stage I do a trial fit into "Project New Mexico" - I don't want
to start into the rally car yet as we're rallying this weekend. The little
bracket I made holds the top end of the column in place and the universal
bit just extends through the Escort floor. |
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A few days
later and with no more rallies for 3 weeks I can get the rally car into
the garage and up onto the axle stands in preparation for so serious work. |
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The first
job was to remove the steering column etc and make room for the new column
and motor to go in. |
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There's
a bit of a jumble of wires in here with various items having been added
after the car was originally rally prepared. |
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And at the
other end there is the ubiquitous group 4 joint, one of the good quality
solid cast ones that aren't so easy to get nowadays. |
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This black
plastic part is the remnants of the Corsa switch unit and steering lock
mechanism which I had butchered off with the angle grinder,
a roll pin holds this to the main outer steel tube of the column. |
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This
plastic collar will be retained because it houses the top column bearing
and it's a very sturdy bearing when compared to a Mk1 Escort one. |
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The next
bit off is the collapsible part of the upper column, this just kind of
twist and slides off - it's not permanently fixed other than being bolted
to the dash in a Corsa. |
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It's
probably not very clear in this photo but that bolt hole thingy beside my
thumb is actually plastic and obviously meant to break away and allow the
column to collapse in the event of an accident - I'll be getting rid of
those eventually. |
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A close up
of the inner tube of this column and you can just make out a long raised
ridge of metal, there are three of these round the inner tube and the
outer is then a tight sliding fit on these ridges. |
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In a Corsa
the steering ECU gets speed signals from the engine and wheels, when
fitted to another car it needs a control box to supply these inputs for
control. This little unit costing £13.75 from Motorsport Innovations
supplies the required signals. |
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Everything,
column, control unit, ECU etc all get bench tested before going any
further - being out of a scrap car you just never know with the steering
but luckily all proves to be working OK. |
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I had
originally intended to buy a boss to fit my Astrali steering wheel to the
Corsa splines but when I heard that it could well cost over £50 I decided
that the budget for this job wouldn't stretch that far. Well OK I was just
being a typical tight Irishman. So the splined end was cut off. |
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As well as
being splined it's also threaded up the inside and I have to cut another
little bit off to clear the threaded bit. It's hollow inside for a good
few inches so I intend to fit the top of an Escort column right down
inside it. |
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And here's
a couple of Escort inner columns, an early pre-ignition lock type one and
the upper one is the later one. |
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Notice
also as well as being a slightly different shape the lower early one has
also a finer thread on the end - a very rare British Cycle Thread, I
didn't realize it at the time but this was to cause me some problems in
the later stages of the project. |
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The early
style column is the same thickness for it's whole length, this is handy as
both ends then fit inside the hollow Corsa inner column without any
further modification. |
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If you are
going to use a later column you will need to get the top part of the
column lathed down so that it will fit inside the Corsa one. |
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Anyway I
went ahead and cut about 8 or so inches off the top end of the early
Escort column. |
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And I
proceeded to slide this right down the inside of the Corsa one, part of
the reason for cutting it so long was to give me a little come and go once
I got round to doing a proper trial fit in the rally car - it's always
easier to shorten something that's too long but if you cut it too short
you're kind of stuck with it. |
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After
having done various trial fits I also cut about 7 inches off the bottom of
the Escort column. |
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This will
go just over 2 inches up the inside of the Corsa bottom joint that I split
apart at the start of the project. It's not quite as tight or firm a fit
as the bit in the top end but it is good enough to keep it all straight. |
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Next up
it's time to start welding the shaft. This is not something you want to be
doing yourself unless you are very confident of your own welding ability
and even then only if you have a fairly powerful machine - at least a 150
and preferably a 180 Amp welder. |
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And this
is the first proper trial fit just to see how I like the position of the
wheel, basically I want it to be as near as possible to where the wheel
was when using the original Escort column. |
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I also
need to be sure that the motor will clear the pedal box etc - I was a
little worried about the accelerator pedal as I have the long Twin
Cam/RS1600 style one fitted to my car but I needn't have worried, there
was plenty of clearance. |
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The bit of
tube, the washers and nut etc are used to protect the splines and threads
from any possibility of getting damaged by welding spatter. |
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I had to
weld a little bit at a time as there appeared to be both plastic and
grease down inside the outer tube of the column. |
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The weld
was then ground down flush with the Corsa part of the column to allow the
top bearing and remains of it's housing to slide down into place. Just
visible is the circlip which helps to hold it in place. |
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Moving on
to the main part of the column I need to make a mounting bracket, this
will attach the motor and housing to the pedal box. Luckily the Corsa unit
comes with a steel bracket already in place. |
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To this
bracket I bolt a length of 1" flat steel, it needs to be offset to
one side to allow it to line up with the pedal box. |
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Using some
more 1" flat steel I start to make up the other end of the bracket
which will bolt up to the pedal box. |
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This part
is then bolted to the pedal box using the bolts which hold the cylinders
in place - these had to be removed and longer ones fitted. Just visible to
the left side of the photo is the part of the bracket which is bolted to
the column. |
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Next up
was to join these two bits of bracket using some old off-cuts of inch
angle iron. This looks simple but actually took quite a bit of trial and
error fitting and tacking and refitting etc. |
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Part of
the trouble was there was really very little room between the pedal box
and power steering motor that I couldn't really see what I was doing but I
eventually got it shaped and welded so that it would hold the motor and
column in exactly the right place. |
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It was
cleaned down and given a nice coat of paint before final fitting. |
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As mention
earlier I don't really intend to keep these bolt on wings and I tack my
bracket directly to the upper column before cutting the remnants of the
wings off completely. |
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Another
trail fit and once I'm happy I can finally weld my bracket solidly to the
upper column, it's much neater with them sticking out to each side. |
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I then add
another strengthening piece down the back of the inverted "V"
before finally painting this part of the outer column. |
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And with
all the welding done the plastic upper bearing housing can be replaced and
the complete column is finally ready to fit into the car - at this stage
it has been in and out over a dozen times on various trial fits. |
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With the
car lowered to the ground again I mess about with the settings on the
controller, this does throw up one problem particularly with the
controller turned up to "full assistance" - there is
considerable torque created by the motor and even with the mounts already
fitted it actually twists slightly in place. |
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To combat
this twisting I decide to fit another bracket between the motor and the
roll cage. This consists of a length of inch box section, two wings are
welded onto one end to bolt to the wings on the alloy housing of the
middle section of the column. |
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At the
other end I fix it in place using an exhaust clamp round the roll cage
rather than welding. This completely eliminates any twisting and makes for
a really firm installation. |
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It also
allows me to fit a little panel between the dash and this bar and on this
I can the mount the fuse box which is seen in the photo above as well as
the adjusting knob for the controller and a main on-off switch which I
decide to install as well as two other switches which had been mounted on
as small bracket in this area. |
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Finally
all the wiring is tidied away and I am all ready to hit the road so to
speak. |
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As
required by the MSA - the governing body of motorsport the ignition lock
was disabled many years ago by grinding off the internal bolt mechanism.
The alloy housing is still there but just to hold the ignition switch, I
just fix this to the thicker Corsa column using longer than normal bolts. |
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Also the
indicator switch is fixed to the column by a similar method. It no longer
has any self canceling mechanism but that's not really required by law.
The truth is that when I'm rallying one of the few times that I use my
indicators is during vehicle scrutiny. |